Ukujonga Izifundo ngoBhubhane

Njengomthonyama waseCalifornia, kwathatha kuphela ubhubhane ukundenza ekugqibeleni ndifunde indlela yokusefa nosapho lwam. Ngexesha apho sonke sikhwele amaza angenakulinganiswa, sifuna nayiphi na indlela yokukhupha lonke uxinzelelo lwendyikitya yokufa, unyulo, nayo yonke enye into, ukufunda ukuhamba emanzini amdaka kubonakala ngathi ngumbono olungileyo.

Ibiyi. Ngelixa i-COVID sisikhumbuzo esikhulu sokuba indalo inamandla kunawe, ukubhabha kwi-surfing kusibonisa indlela yokuphila nokuhla nokuhamba kwale ndlela intsha yobomi. Ufunda ukumelana namaza angapheliyo angqubekiyo, ukusilela okuninzi, kunye namaxesha amafutshane, amnandi okuvumelanisa nento enamandla njengeLwandlekazi lwePasifiki i-707.5 yezigidi zeekhilomitha ³ zamanzi.

Ndifumene sonke isifundo esincinci siluncedo kakhulu kula maxesha angaqinisekanga. Nantsi into ehleli nam:

1. Don izixhobo zokukhusela. Udinga isikrweqe sakho kulwandle olubandayo ngohlobo lwe-wetsuit, umangaliso wobunjineli owasungulwa ngu-UC Berkeley physicist uHugh Bradner ngo-1952, emva koko waphuculwa ngu-icon we-surf uJack O'Neill, ogama lakhe lalisithi, "Kusoloko kuhlobo ngaphakathi " Ifakwe i-neoprene, ikhwela ulwandle oluphakamileyo, uziva ngathi ligorha legwebu. Sonke sifuna izixhobo zethu ukusikhusela, nokuba sisuti esimanzi okanye isikhafu sobuso.

2. Ngena ngaphakathi. Ndingomnye wabo bantu bahlala behamba kancinci kwaye belumkile kumanzi abandayo, ndilungisa icandelo ngalinye lomzimba wam ukuze ndiziqhelanise ngaphambi kokuba ndingene. Intsapho yam ihobe eludongeni lwamanzi njengamatywina ashushu, ekhwaza kubanda. Umhlaba esihlala kuwo ngoku-kwaye iya kuba yinyani yethu kangangexesha elithile-wahluke kakhulu kwinto ebesiyazi ngaphambili. Utshintsho alonwabisi. Uya kuziqhelanisa; abantu bahlala besenza.

3. Qiniseka ukuba ugxile ebhodini ngaphambi kokuba "uvele".

4. Umdala ngoku, kwaye akunako "ukuvela" njengentombi yakho eneminyaka eli-11 ubudala. Kwaye kulungile. Emva kweenzame ezininzi eziphazamisayo, ndiye ndaqonda ukuba ndizama ukuphuma (ukuqhushumba okukuqhubela endaweni ebhodini) ngenyawo elingalunganga eliya phambili. Indlela endiye ndayifumanisa le yayikukuba nomdlali onamava wokuma emva kwam esantini kwaye andinike isitshixo esikhulu ukuze ndibone ukuba loluphi unyawo oluthi lufike kuqala. (A # #% enkulu kwaye enkosi ngaloo nto.) Isifundo apha: Mamela imikhomba yomzimba wakho. Yintoni esebenzela umntwana wakho, umhlobo wakho, iqabane lakho linokwahluka kwinto ekusebenzelayo. Mamela into efunwa ngumzimba wakho-nokuba kukuphumla ngakumbi, ubungqongqo, ukungqinelana okungakumbi, okanye utshintsho oluninzi.

5. Sukujonga elunxwemeni xa uqala ukuphuma; gxila ekubekweni kweenyawo zakho. Ngaba bakwisimo esifanelekileyo, ngaba bakwindawo efanelekileyo ebhodini? Isifundo apha kukuba, ngaphambi kokuba ujonge kububanzi obuphezulu- obunokuba yinto eninzi ongayithatha- qiniseka ukuba umile kwindawo yakho encinci, ekhayeni lakho, kubudlelwane bakho.

6. Yiba nomonde. Ukuqinisekisa kwasekuqaleni ukuba usesikhundleni esifanelekileyo ngaphambi kokuba uvuke kwibhodi kubalulekile. Ukuba useta izinto ngokufanelekileyo, uya kungena kwindawo efanelekileyo: phuma ngaphandle, iingalo ezinjengeempondo kwiQhawe leMfazwe ezimbini, amehlo phambili, konke kukunceda ukhwele iliza ixesha elide. Ukuqonda ukuba ukuntywila kufana neyoga ngelixa uhamba ebhodini kuyanceda. Ukufumana ibhalansi kwiimeko ezingaqinisekanga kuthatha ixesha, ukuziqhelanisa nokuzinikela. Yiba nomonde nesiqu sakho njengoko ufumanisa konke.

7. Xa uthe ekugqibeleni wema, iinyawo zimile, umzimba ulungelelene, ujonge elunxwemeni, hlala ukho ngoku, kumzuzwana, kwaye uhambe nokuhamba. Kuya kufuneka uxabise xa lonke ulungiselelo lukhokelele kumzuzu ogqibeleleyo. Ukugcinwa kohambo, ukudibanisa izixhobo, konke ukusilela. Xa yonke loo nto iboniswa ngaphambili ekhokelela kulonto incamisileyo yokukhwela umtshangatshangiso, kuya kufuneka uyixabise kwaye ube njalo ngalo mzuzu ukuba ungulo mzuzu. Ngamaxesha e-COVID, wonke umzuzu woxolo okanye wovuyo kufana nokubamba umjikelo womzuzwana kumaza.

8. Imemori yezihlunu yinto enamandla. Le yayiyinto esele ndiyifundile, ukusuka kusapho lwam ixesha elishumi lokuzibandakanya ngaphandle kwescreen ngenye imini ngeveki kwinto esiyibiza ngokuba ziTech Shabbats zethu. Xa siqala ukuyenza, isandla sam sijingise kwifowuni ebengekho, iscreen andikwazi ukusicofa. Kodwa ekuhambeni kwexesha, ndaziqeqesha ukuba ndibekhona emzimbeni nasengqondweni yam kwaye ndonwabele usuku olungenaziphazamiso. Into exakayo yeyokuba ndafunda ukungayeki “kwiwebhu.” Ngoku, ukufunda ukusefa "elwandle," ndathembela kobu buchule bunye, ndiphinda izindululo de zibe zezendalo kwaye zazenzekela. Umzimba nengqondo yakho ziya kufuna ukubuyela kweso sikhundla nakwimo yengqondo kaninzi.

9. Bhiyozela amaxesha. Kwakukho ixesha apho omnye umntu owayedlala emanzini ekhwaza usapho lwethu ukuba "bathathe inxaxheba kumbhiyozo," esathi safunda ukuba kufuneka sitsale amaza kunye. Sizamile saphela sineebhodi zokuwela emanzini, sibangela ukungqubana okungathandekiyo kunye neefolopu ezibuyela umva elwandle, iibhodi zokutyibilika emanzini zityibilika zisishiya ngathi ziidolphin ezibalekayo. Sasikulungele ukuyeka ukuzama ukubanomtsalane. Ke ngoku yabona, bendivukile, umyeni wam uKen evukile, kunye neentombi zethu uOdessa noBlooma bevukile, bonke bekho kumjikelo ofanayo imizuzwana emibini yovuyo.

Umntwana wethu oneminyaka eli-11 usikhumbuze ukuba eyona ndlela yokugqibezela loo mzuzu ugqibeleleyo kukolula ubhontsi kunye nepinki, uyigungqise ngolonwabo- ukuphosa "shaka" (okanye "shakalaka"), uphawu loyiso lwesferfer, uvuyo olumsulwa lokukhwela amaza. (Ukuthi "shakalaka" kufana nokutsalwa ngumlomo emlonyeni wakho.)

10. Uya kuwa. Uya kutywatyushwa, uza kuthatha amanzi anetyiwa, uya kuphoswa elwandle njengonodoli oshiyekileyo. Umncinci, ulwandle lulukhulu. Kwaye kulungile ukufumana loo mbono. Awukho kulawulo olupheleleyo. Indalo. Buyela elwandle njengegorha elihlaselweyo.

Njengombhali weentshatsheli uBethany Hamilton wathi, “Ukuba nesibindi akuthethi ukuba awoyiki. Ukuba nesibindi kuthetha ukuba sukuvumela uloyiko lukuyekise. ” Amaza ngakumbi — amanye alungile, amanye mabi — aya ngakuthi. Siza kubethwa ngaphaya. Siza kubuya. Ke fumana izixhobo zakho zokukhusela. Beka olona nyawo lwakho lomeleleyo phambili. Kwaye ulahle i-shakalaka amaxesha ngamaxesha.